Hey all,
I think most of you knew that I was heading to Dubai and Qatar
for a couple weeks – the trip was mostly to help facilitate a leadership
program for college students in Qatar,
but I was able to tack on a few days of vacation both in Dubai
and Qatar. Figured I'd send out a report on the trip for
those interested – you all know that I am incapable of short trip reports, so
there is a link to pics at the bottom if you just want to see those. No offense taken if you just want to hit your
delete button… :)
Let me just say that this was just an unbelievable trip, one
that I had extremely lofty expectations for, and those expectations were most
certainly surpassed. I didn't know what
to expect, but what I experienced was so much greater than anything I could
have ever imagined them to be. On some
many levels, most notably professionally and personally, I experienced so much
that I am just so grateful and appreciative that I was given this opportunity. It clearly goes down as one of my top 3 life
experiences.
Dubai:
I'd heard that Dubai
was Vegas on crack, and that was true, except there is gambling, no drinking
and none of the so-called "gentlemen's clubs." It is very similar to Vegas, however, in the sense that the buildings
and architecture seem each intended to outdo the most-previously built
structures. The amount of construction
going on both in Dubai and Qatar is just
unreal. Everywhere you look there are
construction cranes and it's hard to go anywhere without hearing the sounds of
hammers and trucks.
In the 3 days I had there, I was able to visit older part of
Dubai on the
first day and then the more modern part on the 2nd. The third was spent treating myself to a
half-day at the spa, something I never do, but figured I'd throw myself a bone
with a massage and yogurt-based exfoliation treatment. No, I can't believe I just said that
either.
Anyhow, the highlight of the older town was visit the souqs,
or markets. Dubai is known for its gold souq, and for
those who love gold, this is a shopper's paradise. Just a ridiculous number of places to get
gold, and over there, the usual is 18K not the 14K we typically see in the
states, and it does look different even to my untrained eye.
Once you click on the pics, you'll see what the newer part
of town is like – and there are several parts – Sheikh Zayed road is the street
with a ton of high-rises, then there are the uber-nice beach resorts, including
the famed Burj al Arab, the only 7-star hotel in the world (in the pics, it's
the one that looks like a sail)– which I wasn't able to see b/c you have to
make reservations to enter and it has a gatehouse at its front, so there is no
sneaking in. There is also a huge tech
industry in Dubai,
with companies like Microsoft, Cisco, etc. all with a presence there. Then the Burj Dubai is under construction –
to be the tallest building in the world at 800+ meters. Finally, there is the
Mall of the Emirates, the largest mall in the world, featuring Ski Dubai, an
indoor ski resort – and this ain't no small slope – it's a very
impressively-size couple run and couple lifts. Oh yea, there's also the Palm and
the World, which are basically man-made island built in the shape of a palm and
in the shape of a flat map of the world. Unreal.
The one thing I felt walking around, particularly in the
hotels and high-rises which I took self-guided tours of, is the sense that
everyone there has money. Chris Rock
used to say, "I'm not talking about rich, I'm talking about wealth." And that
is what kept going thru my head as I walked around. It just feels like those who are there are in
a different stratosphere of wealth. The
odd contrast is that the workers/laborers, who are mostly from India, Pakistan,
and Bangladesh,
are extremely poor and paid horribly – on the order of $100-$200 per month, and
often times they are not paid for months on end. It's a very weird situation.
Overall, Dubai
is a pretty amazing place to visit, despite that much of it feels quite
contrived and almost plasticky. But to
see all these highrises and magnificent structures in the Middle
East really does blow one's mind.
Qatar:
The real reason for my trip was the leadership program. As way of background, there is a part of Doha, Qatar,
called Education City,
where there are campuses of 5 U.S.
universities – VCU, Texas A&M, Carnegie-Mellon, Georgetown
and Weil Cornell Medical
School. Through the Qatar Foundation, created and
supported by Her Highness Sheikha Moza, the Qatar
government has brought top-notch US
programs to Qatar
– each focused on a certain area – VCU on design and graphic arts, A&M on
engineering, etc. And the government has not only paid all the building
construction for these school, pays the faculty (which are primarily US-based
professors), etc., but they have given each school a huge grant – the only
public figure is that Cornell received $750MM.
What the Qatar Foundation and the government in general are
doing is just extraordinary. Everything
seems to be done in an extremely strategic and intelligent manner. They are throwing huge sums of money at these
projects, but done in a smart way – they are also building a technology center,
which I can only describe as beyond ginormous. One of the largest structures I've seen in person. And they are going to be building an $8
billion hospital complex. Yes, with a
"b". Given that the countries oil reserves are expected to last another 40
years, they are planning now to provide long-term viability for the nation.
One point of interest is that the population of Qatar is ~800,000,
which is comprised of 200K Qataris and 600K expats. It's a surprisingly small country, but one
with an awesome amount of resources, both natural (oil and gas) and human.
The leadership program I went for/with is through an
organization called LeaderShape which I have been affiliated with for a few
years now. Both the Qatar Foundation and
RasGas (one of the big companies out there) sponsored the session, and let me
say that we were so well taken care of that I was so just floored. From being met at the gate and taken to a
separate visa-processing area to staying in 5-star hotels, I'm not sure we
really deserved this treatment, but you definitely did not hear me
complaining. Plus, we got access that
was just unparalleled – for example, we were able to visit the Al Jazeera
Children's network, which *nobody* gets to see. We saw a traditional dance
theater performance, toured the campuses, and got to see the Doha Debates, a
program based on the Oxford Union debates – they have previously had such luminaries
as Shimon Perez and Colin Powell visit. The topic of the debate we saw was whether Palestine should give up its fight to return
to its lands. It airs on BBC World, and
is really meant more for the students than anyone else. Very cool.
As for the session, I'll leave out most of the specifics, as
they won't make sense to most of you, but suffice it to say that this group of
59 students amazed, inspired and humbled me. With backgrounds from 10-15 countries, it was unbelievably diverse, and
while we had spent a great deal of time thinking and talking about the
differences b/w there and the states and how we might have to adjust the
curriculum, my quote of the week was when they first arrived at the
session. It was simply, "They look like
normal people." What I meant was that we
had talked about the differences so much that I failed to recognize how similar
they would be to college students anywhere. Sure, a bunch of the women wore hijab over their hair, and one woman was
fully veiled (I'll get to her in a second – very different than what I, and
possibly you, might have expected), but for the most part, they dressed like
"typical" college students, behaved similarly and have the same hopes and
dreams of most college students I've met.
From a curriculum standpoint, we didn't change anything – it
was the same curriculum we always do, and other than some subtle vocabulary
distinctions we had to explain, their level of comprehension was
top-notch. In addition, there were
certain things that they did which none of us had seen before, and I mean that
mostly in a positive way. Their vision
statements were impressive, as expected, ranging from wanting to find a cure
for cancer, improving women's rights, giving the workers and laborers the
respect and dignity they deserve, and wanting to make Qatar a world
leader in innovation and technology. Big
and bold visions. Awesome.
Back to the woman who was fully-veiled. Her name is Asma. Prior to my trip, I had perceived women who
were fully-veiled (just their eyes showing) as being oppressed, submissive and
reserved. Definitely not the case with
Asma. She was probably one of the
brighter students there, and that is saying something given the company;
similarly, she was one of the most attentive participants and clearly has a
very strong personality. While I never
did see her entire face, in some ways, and I find this as surprising as many of
you might, seeing her eyes was enough. It wasn't all I saw of her, as she revealed a great amount of her
personality with her spoken word and actions, but it certainly wasn't that the
veiled covered her personality and being. It was a stereotype I carried that I was glad to have broken.
Finally, on a personal note, this trip meant a great deal to
me. It is the closest I've been to Iran in ages. Other than my trip with Moneypenny to Egypt in '97, I
haven't been to the region in 30 years. It was very important for me to re-connect with that part of my past,
and it was certainly a component of my connecting with the students. Interestingly, this was the first time I can
recall where telling people I was Iranian served as such a strong positive and
means of connection. Typically, the reaction
I get is "Oh, neat," or "Cool, I used to work with an Iranian," or simply a
negative reaction (rare, but still occurs). But in Dubai and Qatar, it was a
huge positive. And that was very cool to
experience.
The other thing I realized was that as much as I've traveled
over the past 10 years, this is by far the most in-depth experience I've
had. Travelling as a tourist, one rarely
gets the kind of interaction that I had in Qatar. Those who have taken semesters abroad or have
lived abroad know exactly what I'm talking about. Interestingly, I think it has changed how I
think about travel – I'm not sure exactly what I can do about it yet, and
believe me, I am very grateful for the travel I have been able to do thus far,
but this trip made me realize how much more I can learn with such deeper
interactions. Sometimes it's just the
reality of being a tourist, but I also think that you can choose, to some
extent, how much interaction you have.
Man, what a great trip. Again, I am so grateful for the opportunity I was given. Thinking it would be an amazing trip was one
thing, then realizing I had no clue what that meant and having all my
expectations surpassed was just extraordinary. A big thank you to the folks at LeaderShape and my fellow faculty who
were out in Qatar
as part of this session.
Take care,
-Babak
Link to pics (btw, i had an 8-hour layover in London, so i ran around the city for a few hours):
http://www.sharpcast.com/photos/user/trigeek/images?album=11539_49559627642501